Mid July and ours is
the last farm to gather its sheep off the mountain. The sheep have been
enjoying the mountain grass for the last couple of months, since the moment our
farmer thought the weather was OK to send them up. But now it’s time to come
down for shearing.
We meet outside the
farm at 5:00 a.m. The plan is to get up and down before it gets too hot. One by
one the gang assembles. It’s a mixture of young and not-so-young, family, other
farmers, and me the neighbour. They’ve done this many times over the last three
weeks, taking it in turns to help each other, but for me it’s full of fresh
excitement.
Just above the mountain wall |
The gathering gang
seems a bit subdued. One of the older men has stretched himself out on a sack
of wool and seems to be asleep. There’s a lot of muttering and cursing about
the weather. It’s fine where we are, but clouds are covering the top of the
mountain.
Most farm jobs carry
on whatever the weather, but cloud on the mountain is a no-no for gathering the
sheep. Fluffy grey sheep blend in perfectly with the clouds, making them
impossible to see at any distance. You can’t see your colleagues as you sweep
the mountain from different directions. You can’t see the dogs to guide and
control them. Apart from these complications there is also the safety hazard: there
are many cliffs waiting to catch you out.
From where we are by
the river, we are right up against the foot of the mountain and can only see
the first ridge. Dafydd phones his wife, who has a good view from her kitchen: 'Yes, you can see it now. Hold on. No, it’s gone again. I think it’ll clear
soon. ...' Geraint gets into his van and listens to the weather forecast. It’s too
general, whilst what’s happening on our mountain right now is a bit too
specific. The farmer takes off in his Land Rover and watches from the other
side of the valley as we kick our heels in the farmyard. There’s only so much
small talk welcome this early.
At ten o’clock, the
farmer comes back from yet another recce. 'Amser paned' … let’s get a cup of tea.
Ten of us squeeze into the farmhouse and are made very welcome. Tea, sausage
rolls, bread and cake … great, feel fit to tackle a mountain now.
It’s decided that now
is the time to go. I climb into the back of a 4x4x4 where the last 4 indicates
the number of sheepdogs I have for company. Three of us and the four dogs are
taken to the west, whilst the larger group of seven with eleven dogs are
dropped off to the east of the mountain.
We climb part-way up a
ridge before splitting up. I’m to make my way to the point where the wall comes
down from the mountain and ignore the blue-marked sheep – they’ve crossed over
the top of the mountain from another farm. I can hear the dogs being worked
above me but otherwise it’s peace and quiet. Not many sheep here, just a few
wild goats watching on.
I make it to the wall,
driving just a couple of sheep ahead. The man above is now in position with his
dogs and shouts down. It’s going to be a long wait, as the cloud has come down
again whilst the farmer is out of sight scouring the top. Eventually the cloud
lifts and we’re on the move again. Sheep that were in twos or threes are now in
tens or more, moving cautiously downwards and towards the centre of the
mountain.
The rounded mountain in the background is Manod where the contents of the National Gallery were hidden in WWII |
Gathering is never an
exact science nor a complete sweep, there’s always one or more that gets away.
A shaggy one with the front of her coat hanging down stands defiant in front of
two dogs. She stamps her feet and snorts at them, before dashing recklessly
diagonally down the mountain in the wrong direction. The dogs follow as the
sheep rebounds off a stone wall and carries on relentless. This sheep is too
determined and gets left behind; so much for the parable of the lost sheep.
By now the sun has
burnt through the early morning clouds and is beating down with a vengeance.
The lower we get the hotter we get. Sheep, dogs and shepherds are converging
downwards from all directions. Just below me a sheep is trying to hide in the
undergrowth, too exhausted to go any further. One of the men carries her on his
shoulders - hardly a ‘piggy-back’!
As we descend we move
from the cliffs, through boulder fields into the heather belt, the bogs and
thence into the bracken. If the sheep kept silent and still, thousands could
hide away beneath this tall green camouflage. It’s an exhausting job for dogs
to break through the forest of bracken.
Having undergone all
kinds of natural hazards, we are just about to cross the Ffestiniog Railway
line when an unscheduled train comes past. A couple of minutes later and there would
have been either an emergency stop or a few lamb chops.
More or less back at
the farm and the dogs take a muddy bath and a few mouthfuls of brackish water.
Their work is almost done, whereas the shepherds have many hours of shearing
ahead of them.
What sort of future
lies ahead for this type of farming?
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